Huningue to Neuf-Brisach, the flatlands of Alsace

Mileage:- 41 miles

Total mileage:- 310 miles

Hotel:- Aux Deux Roses - Neuf-Brisach

Today's route took us a little way west of the Rhine and we followed canal towpaths for a while, then old railway lines for much of the rest of the day. It has been the wettest yet.

So it was a heads down and keep going day. 

We looked at the campsite here, tipis  and Finnish cabins, all complet. Guess that is the French Tandemistes meeting here over the weekend. As ground was very soggy we opted for the hotel. Which is just as well as John P has to dry and sort out his footwear. 

Waldshut to Huningue (France)

Mileage :- 47 miles

Total mileage:- 269 miles

Hotel :- Tivoli 

We were in the centre of Waldshut, and we woke up to silence. It took us a while to work out it was a holiday. Everything was shut. So we set off eager to reach Bad Sackingen and the "longest covered bridge over the Rhine".

We made good time and had a hot chocolate before we found the bridge and crossed over from Germany to Switzerland.

The bridge had a white line across the middle, the border! It was impressive, but to Ann's delight we crossed a further 2 covered bridges during the day. 

We were now travelling on the south, Swiss side and stopped in Rheinfelden for lunch. Many of the small towns and villages have grand gates as you enter them. All very picturesque.

We dodged the rain and managed some sunshine. After lunch we sheltered briefly from rain and met an English couple from Oldham. They had toured in Europe for years, using trains and doing impressive tours. They had got lightweight touring down to a fine art as they had only a fraction of what we carry. Off we went heading for Basel and then to Huningue in France. The route and signs through Basel were great. Very clear, which made for a fast route through, to the cathedral and out towards France. We quickly found our hotel and settled in, with a beer and shower, in that order. 

Germany for breakfast, Switzerland for lunch and France for tea. 

Gailingen to Waldshut

Mileage :- 47 miles

Total mileage:- 222 miles

Hotel Schwanen,  Waldshut

We spent the day in full waterproofs. The temperature was back down to single figures. 

We set off in heavy rain, quickly through Schaffenhausen and on to the Rheinfall. These falls were amazing, not that high, but an incredible volume of water going over. The view points on the Swiss side were just above the roaring water, as we were still wearing waterproofs the spray was not a problem.

The route after the Rheinfall was surprisingly varied, and not all downhill. In fact we climbed over 2800ft. We were on quiet lanes some very good cycle paths, some packed paths, all clearly signed and even diversions for cyclists. The rain stopped for a while and the views and route proved very interesting and varied. We seemed to cross and recross the border a number of times through the day. We were aiming to stop on the German side as it is much cheaper than the Swiss side. 

We arrived in Waldshut around 5, found a hotel, had beer outside followed by a meal and bed. 

Fischback to Gailingen

Mileage:- 33 miles ( + 4 on ferry)

Hotel :- Hirschen Gasthof

An airship went past our window before breakfast.

Apparently they are trying to revitalise the old Zeppelin works with new technology airships. 

We had a short ride up to Meersburg to catch the ferry to Konstanz. This took us through an area of vineyards and very pleasant villages. We joined the queue for the ferry in glorious sunshine. The ferry trip took about 25 mins. We could still see snow capped mountains in the distance. Konstanz was established around 550 ad. To arrive by ferry is a great way to see much of the old town.

We walked through the main streets which were mainly pedestrianised. Then off again. Out of Germany, back into Switzerland and back into Germany. 

We had yet another stop and wander through Stein am Rhein. One of the best preserved medieval small towns.

Plenty of tourists, walkers and cyclists. Eventually carried on, through some forest areas, which was pleasantly cool after the high temperatures of today. 22 degrees, which after the low temperatures we have had is quite a shock to the system. 

We have just completed the hardest part of the day. An enormous meal in the hotel. A very good meal, but it will take most of tomorrow to work it off.

Mountains and Monsters

Mileage:- 47 miles

Hotel Koenigsaecker. 

We awoke to discover the very heavy rain had finally stopped, although it still looked grey. We set off towards Bodensee.

As we rode towards the lake the valley widened, and we could see the mountains on both sides. Through St. Margrethen and towards the lake was suddenly very open and flat. There were lots of marinas and park areas. Soon we were in Bregenz, where we stopped at the Opera House. A very impressive modern building where during the summer season they put on productions in the open air.

Part of the seating is above the lake, and the stage area is on the lake. The "monsters" are from the next production, though we could not work out what it was. 

We continued along this side of the lake, passing briefly through Austria and then into Germany. There were lots of cyclists on the route now. We stopped for lunch in Lindau, on the lake shore in the sunshine.

The views across the lake back towards the mountains were amazing. After many a photo stop we stopped for the night in Fishbach. The Parkins keen to christen new tent,  decided to camp. We decided to stay with the hotel option until it is a bit warmer.

Did I mention that we found another covered bridge? Ann is happy.

Zizers to Altstatten

Mileage:- 45 miles

Hotel - Untertor

The Sport Hotel was right on the cycle route so we loaded up, turned left and off we went.

After a short distance we opted for the Heidiland route. As this had been Mr. Ps favourite reading when he was younger, and still is, we could not pass up the opportunity to cycle through this idyllic landscape. And so it proved. Gently undulating lanes and paths going through vineyards and farms growing all sorts of fruit and vegetables. We saw some strange 4 wheeled contraptions with plastic roofs and being pushed backwards by the occupants of the single seat. We saw they were picking very large strawberries.

After many photo stops, we headed back to the river. The valley was getting wider, almost mile by mile. The river was also getting wider and deeper as we rode along the banks. John P was also getting wider on a day by day basis. We rode along a raised bank, right beside the Rhine, it was smooth and fast. After a while we crossed over a narrow bridge that took us into Liechenstein.  The path on that side was very similar to the we had just left. We continued on for a while then crossed back over to Switzerland.  Then Ann was in 7th heaven, we found a covered bridge. 

Wherever we looked the views were amazing. Gentle farm scenes with snow capped mountains in the background. Old castles and large houses on prominent hills. Picturesque houses, villages and lanes. 

We went into Buchs, which all appeared shut. We found a small store that did hot snacks and drinks,  replenished we carried on. The route now took us in a wide sweep away from the river, but staying on the flat valley floor. Today we have seen buffalo, storks, other birds to numerous to mention and large numbers of horses. Part of the last section of our route was along a canal, memories of the Canal du Midi.   It was a very different scene, although still cold, about 4 degrees when we set off. We eventually rode into Altstatten just after 4pm.  After a little searching we found Hotel - Untertor, right in the centre. It is run by a jovial Indian gentleman, who offered John a new wife, and thought us mad to use bikes when a car is so much more comfortable, and all in the first few minutes of us arriving. The big decision now is do we eat in his restaurant, or go out in the pouring rain, it started just as we got to the hotel. 

We feel we have got going now after our start. Could just do with a bit of heat now. 

Trun to Zizers

Mileage:- 41 miles 

Hotel Sport Centre. 

We had an excellent meal and night in  Casa Todi, Trun.  We started today with a superb run down the road to Ilanz. Here we turned off the main road for the start of the most ascents we should do on this trip. We slowly gained height, all the time extending the superb views across the valley.  Green fields, forest, rocky sections then snow covered peaks. Although it was cold, we had no rain, and the sun appeared a couple of times. The ascent towards the Ruinaulta gorge was good and we all managed it ok. There were some spectacular views, then we had an interesting descent to the bridge over the gorge.  

More stunning views.  The road, very narrow by this stage then clung to almost vertical cliffs, going through a number of tunnels. At the end of this section was a viewpoint overlooking the bridge in one direction and the conluence of the Rhine and the Hinterrhein, where the River becomes the Rhine proper. 

A surprising long straight, and fast descent took us towards Tamins. At this point we were back close to the road, river, and railway on minor roads or cycle paths.

We headed into Chur, the first city on the Rhine. The Tourist Information lady ordered us into a  Hotel in Zizers, that was the outer limits of her domain. "It is a good hotel, a good price and you will stay. " Ok, we did as we were told. 

A great days cycling. 

And we are off, after a slightly different start.

Mileage:- 9 miles! Hopefully this will improve.

   After waking to continuos snow and strong winds, and being told the road was closed to Oberalp we decided to get the train over the pass and down to Disentis. The pass was impressive, and the views from the train when we could see were  spectacular.  We arrived in Disentis, unloaded bikes and luggage, for the last time for a while we hope. The rail staff have all been great, friendly and helpful. Even this last small train could take quite a few bikes. 

We had lunch in a small old restaurant with a magnificent carved wood ceiling. 

We then set off, as we had the hotel booked, having originally planned a longer cycling day, we did not have far to go. This part of the route was classified as 'rough' - it was. Not too bad, one or two steepish short climbs that had us puffing a bit. Jenny blamed the altitude, we blamed lack of activity. The weather continued to improve as we rode, crossing the Rhine a number of times. Quite narrow and shallow at the moment. Looking forward to seeing how it changes. We arrived in Trun and found our hotel , Casa Todi. A grand old building with a tower and lots of original old features. 

We were a little  disappointed not to have cycled the pass, but we could have waited for days before the weather changed. now we are on our way. 

And the snow fell ..

The predicted snow arrived and is still falling. Looks like we will be taking the train over the pass.

Amsterdam to Zurich

With the afternoon to kill, we went to the recently re-opened Rijks Museum. We had put the luggage in a locker at the station and the bikes in a secure bike park. The number of bikes in the Bike Parking was unbelievable. There was one of  3 floors. The Rijks was fantastic, the renovation of the building was amazing and although we did not have time to see everything, the Rembrandts, Van Gogh and the rest were well worth the 15 Euro entry. A good meal and back to the station for the night train. 

These trains travel all over Europe. Our carriage was held for bikes and the rest was cabins for up to 6 people. Luckily there were only 4 of us. Through the night the train picked up and dropped off certain carriages as it joined up or left other routes. At 8.30 we arrived in Zurich, had breakfast, bought our tickets to Andermatt. This would involve one change to a smaller train. Even so we had no problem with the tandem, and all the staff we dealt with we're very helpful and friendly. We finally arrived at our hotel at 12.30. We could have cut the travelling time, but it was enjoyable experience and we are in no rush.

The forecast for our start at Oberalp tomorrow is 40 cm of snow!! It is possible to get a train to lower levels but we shall see what tomorrow shall bring. 

Cabin

We survived the tiny cabin. The route into Amsterdam was a 2 lane cycle path. It took us straight into the centre, and to the Central Station. Until we were in the centre we had seen virtually no cyclists. As we entered the central area they all appeared. No one wearing helmets, mainly on very upright sit up bikes. We also saw thousands of bikes parked up in every conceivable place. We easily found the station, which was the begining of the next stage.

A Ferry nice time will be had by all.

A great ride along from Newcastle Quayside, following route 72, C2C, along north side of Tyne to Royal Quays for the ferry. Dfds have found us the smallest cosy cabin, we lasted 10 minutes before we had to find a bar.

Newcastle

30 miles to Carlisle. Good train journey, and now on the Quayside. Met the Parkins at Premier Inn.
Apparenty the temperature at Oberalp for friday is -10. And we planned this for a warm summer ride.

Last Weekend - getting packed

We think we have all the guides and maps. We hope the bikes are serviced and ready to go. The packing and kit are still being fine tuned, although the webcam pictures of snow in Oberalp did make us rethink on the warm clothing front. 
We will leave Monday 20 May, cycling to Carlisle and then train to Newcastle. We stay overnight in Newcastle before cycling to Tynemouth for the ferry to Holland. From Amsterdam we get the Night Train to Zurich, local train to Andermatt and then on Friday off we go.

Bikes on trains: Transpennine Trains are happy to take bikes  but you cannot book a bike place, and they operate a first come system, which is fine unless one has a ferry to catch. They also say they limit the bikes to 2 per train. This is why the Parkins are meeting us in Newcastle, they are travelling on a different train. We decided that, by travelling the day before the ferry, we won't be pressured by time. One day the train companies will follow Europe and realise the better the facilities for cyclists, the more custom they get.

We are all looking forward to setting off now. Attempting to minimise the number of electronic gadgets, chargers etc that we carry. 3 kindles weigh less than one hefty tome. 

The Bikes and kit

Our tandem is a Thorn Raven Twin. It is just over 2 years old. We bought it with SS fittings so we could split the tandem when we use trains and by car. It has a Rohloff Speedhub 500/14. That is a 14 gear hub gear. We have Thorn steel racks front and back, and all the panniers and bags are Ortleib. These we purchased from Globetrotters in Germany. The bike has Shimano XTR M970 V brake on the front, a Hope V2 Tandem rear disc brake and a Shimano Br-M590 V brake as the third brake on the back operated by a SJSC Thumb shifter. We are using Schwalbe Marathon Dureme tyres, possibly slight case of overkill, but they have worked really well on previous trips and have not punctured to date, fingers crossed. We are trying out a Click stand on this trip, as we cannot fit a prop stand to the tandem. 
John and Jenny's bikes are both Austrian KTM lite touring bikes, equipped with Rohloff gears and Magura hydraulic rim brakes.  These bikes come with almost everything you need, Lights and dynamo, racks, mudguards and stand. They also have front suspension and rear suspension seat posts.
They have 27" Schwalbe Duremes. 




We are carrying tents and sleeping bags as the intention is to camp when it suits, when the weather is ok.
On   Lon Las Cymru - 4 pensioners, 3 bikes and Wales I only used a Smart phone for the Blog and it seemed to work ok. 

Route of Euro Velo 15

The Route of Eurovelo 15.

We are going by train to Newcastle, ferry to Holland, night train to Zurich and finally a small mountain train to Oberalp. Then the hope is  - downhill all the way.
There are choices as to which side of the river you travel on, and in some places which countries you travel through. 
We  are intending to camp and also use B&Bs, hotels etc. depending on the weather, energy and where we are.
The total mileage at the moment is only a rough guess, we have to get to the start, and also return via Amsterdam, so that will add extra miles.