Noordwijk to Ijmuiden, Ferry to Tynemouth, cycle to Newcastle , train to Penrith and Home.

Mileage:- 28 miles in Holland, 11 to Newcastle station and 10 from Penrith home.

Total mileage:- 994 Miles ( there will be more for the total from door to door.)

No hotel - our own bed!!!

A gentle ride up to the ferry, the North Sea Route cycle path is great, well away from everything, gently undulating, and surprisingly busy. We passed a large area where there were thousands of birds, lots of ducks and some highland cattle?

We arrived at the ferry in plenty of time and when we were eventually let on enjoyed a shower and an evening meal before we returned to  the joy of a spacious cabin for 4 people. 4 people who had a very small amount of clothing for a month of strenuous activity, all in a very confined space. But as no one else commented, so we can't have been too bad.

Off the ferry and straight onto the cycle path to the Newcastle Quays. It is really well signed and continues to improve. It is a great way to enter the city, along the river all the bridges and the Sage and Baltic all come into view. In our honour they were cleaning the windows on the Sage.
Onward and to the station, tickets for Carlisle for John & Jenny and Penrith for us. 

I intend to sort the photos out and put them on here, and take some time to think about the trip, trying to remember all that we have done and seen.

Here I am, same place as a month ago, but, the bike is pointing home this time.

Maassluis to The Hook of Holland to Noordwijk. To the end, then turn north, keep sea on left.

Mileage:- 38 miles.

Total mileage:- 945 miles.

Hotel:- Hotel Belvedere. 

Can we find a hotel that can match the very welcome Free Beer we had last night? John P has booked ahead at Noordwijk. 

This is the last day on the Rhine Route. We had an early start, for us, but it did us no good as we went back to where we finished and came off the route yesterday, only to realise we had to go back into town to cross a bridge. Eventually, on the right path we headed off on the final few kilometres. John P had kept a clean shirt for the occasion.

It was a little misty as we rode along an excellent path right beside the river. We came to the Maeslantkering. One of the largest moving objects on earth. 2 giant flood gates.

We chose to ride up the path  to a viewing area. Other cyclists seemed to use it as a training hill. On to the Hook. 

We had to go to the end. The end being a 'mole' that stretched out for a kilometre  into the North Sea. 

Close to 1000 miles, floods, snow, heat, plenty of rain, breakages, lovely scenery, many changes to the river along our route. 

Not quite finished, we had to turn right and head north to Ijmuiden for the ferry.

We are following route 1b North Sea Cycle Route. All very clearly signed and on paths nowhere near roads for the most part. Ups and downs through the dunes for about 50 miles. 

Lovely older hotel for our last night.

Schoonhoven to Rotterdam to Maassluis. Windmills, bridges, ferries and heat.

Mileage:-38 miles.

Total mileage:- 907 miles. 

Hotel:- Pension 'Piet Hein'.

We started by getting the ferry across the river. The along the dyke until we turned off on a loop that would take us to Kinderdijk. This is now a UNESCO heritage site. There are 19 windmills, many in working order. 

Then we started to approach Rotterdam. Coming in from the south was fairly straightforward and we were soon at the Erasmus Bridge.

The temperature today soared. Fine when we were on the bikes, but as soon as we stopped, we roasted. 

We had to get a ferry before Rotterdam, so we followed the route, found the ferry, rode on, off the other side and then realised we had taken the wrong ferry. We had lunch waiting for the right ferry. 

The route through Rotterdam was clear and we were soon over the bridge and heading towards the coast. We stopped at a VVV, Tourist Information and booked an hotel. 

Throughout the day we have seen a lot of wildlife, particularly birds. 

Storks, herons and lots of geese and ducks.

The river continues to change. It is now tidal, the ships are becoming more ocean going than river. We are now 2 metres above sea level. Last night we were -2 metres ie below sea level. Though we did not notice the climb today. 

Rhenen to Veenendaal to Schoonhoven. Bike shops tour.

Mileage:-50 miles.

Total mileage:- 869 miles.

Hotel:- Hotel Belvedere 

Acting on advice from our hotel, we took the train to Veenendaal, as there are a number of bike shops there. We arrived and found the first one by 10.00. He could not help. The next three were closed on Monday. The fifth one could not do it but sent us to number 6. This shop Rein Veenendaal, was very large,

had a big service area and a very nice gentleman who said, yes take the bags off and bring it in. In no time he had the rear cranks off, and showed us the damage.

Can you fix it? Yes no problem. In fact it was all done in about 45 minutes. 

Brilliant. It cost us 45 Euros. 

We were back on the road at 2.00. About 45 miles to catch up with the Parkins. 

One of the staff in the shop gave us directions to get us on our way. 

We made good progress with a helpful wind and once near the river, the Lek, we were once again on a dyke. The bike was running smooth again, 

It was good to be on route again. We had thought the damage might be more of a problem. In the end I think must have caused it when changing the chain before we left home. An expensive lesson learnt. 

We stormed along, taking shortcuts through windmills, and enjoying the good weather. 

We got to Schoonhoven just after 6, the welcome party were already imbibing. 

A very welcome beer, shower and meal in a lovely hotel with a balcony looking out over the river. 

The very satisfactory end to a long day. 

Rhenen. Staying here.

Mileage:- none. 

Hotel:- same as last night. 

We had noticed a problem with the tandem as we arrived yesterday. The problem literally appeared on the last few hundred metres on yesterdays route. When we looked this morning , it appears to be a problem with the crank bearings. As we don't have the tools we need, it will have to be a bike shop. Unfortunately, the local one is closed today, Sunday, and unfortunately Monday. So our plan is to get a train to a bigger town, find a repair shop and hopefully continue. Rooms were in short supply here, so John and Jenny carried on to the next stop where they have a room. Hopefully we can join them as soon as possible. 

Millingen to Rhenen. Holland and hills.

Mileage:- 31 miles.

Total mileage:- 819 miles.

Hotel :- Hotel Paviljoen

After a brass band welcome and a pensioners party in Millingen we were ready  to continue.

As we arrived at the hotel there was a wedding party taking place. A short while later a brass band marched through the town and stopped outside the hotel, they played a couple of tunes, then the bride joined them playing the French horn. 

The pensioners evening entertainment appeared to be a 3 hour session of bingo. We enjoyed a good meal on a buy one get one half price deal. 

John got his bearings sorted, new pedals, Jenny got her squeak sorted, lubrication. 

We got a small ferry across the Rhine, and before Arnhem recrossed the river on another ferry. Then the heavens opened. Add a very strong wind and we had unpleasant riding conditions. We also saw some strange creatures along the route.

In Arnhem John P and I spent a long time in the Tourist Information trying to get rooms for tonight. All rooms in the area we wanted were booked, apparently by a multi-national company celebrating 25 years. We eventually got this hotel. 

After having a short stop in Arnhem for lunch and a look around, we set off. Arnhem apparently is the only Dutch town built on a hill. After leaving the town we had an enjoyable ride through old forests until we got back near the river. Once back in the open the wind reappeared in force. Not a lot of miles but hard work today. 

Ossenburg to Millingen an dee Rijn. Going Dutch.

Mileage:- 45 miles

Total mileage:- 788 miles.

Hotel:- hotel Millings Centrum. 

We enjoyed our evening meal in Rhine Berg Hotel, much quieter than in the night before in Dusseldorf. 

An early start today and we were on good cycle paths. We made good progress up to Xanten. Stopped here to visit the cathedral and buy lunch. There were also Roman remains and an amphitheatre, but did not have time.back on to the path and the dyke. No flood diversions today, but one diversion due to work on the dyke.

We had lunch on the dyke, with a view of both the river and the Wunderland Kalkar. A theme park, built in an old disused nuclear power station. We were not tempted. 

Jenny has had a squeak for a couple of days, it is now loud enough that heads turn as we go through towns. John P has had bearing problems. Thankfully both ate to be sorted at a bike shop close to the hotel. 

We saw a tour group in Xanten, in order to listen to the guide they all had to wear clogs.

We are now in Holland, the sign shows Eurovelo 15, the first for a long time.

Dusseldorf to Ossenberg. Today Duisburg - enough said.

Mileage:- 41 miles.

Total mileage:- 743miles

Hotel :- Rhine Berg

After an enjoyable evening watching life on the street in front of our hotel, we had a good breakfast, packed the bags, attached them all to the bikes and set off. A couple of minutes later when we stopped at a bakery to buy lunch, John P's bike fell over. We had our first puncture. 

Unload the bike, release brakes and gears, replace inner tube, and 40 minutes later we are back on our way. Initially we had very good paths and a strong following wind and made good time. We were in open country for a while then we had more industrial works to circumnavigate. Signage was not as good and we took a little time checking the route. We entered pleasant parkland on the outskirts of Duisberg. All facilities provided for the tired cyclist. 

There was also a very tidy garden next to the park. With a phone box. 

After this we entered Duisberg. It was very busy, lots of roadworks and not easy to navigate through. When we finally crossed the bridge over the Rhine we were pleased to be on the way out.

We headed for Rheinburg for the night. But the hotel was full. on we went to Ossenberg. There we found the Hotel Rheinberg. Luckily they had rooms, storage for the bikes and beer. 

A shower and then a very good meal. 

We are thinking that we may need to plan ahead as the accomadation is limited on the next few stages. 

Koln to Dusseldorf. Walled town of Zons and ferry across the Rhine.

Mileage:- 35 miles

Total mileage:- 702 miles

Hotel:- Hotel Alt Dusseldorf

We spent some time looking around the cathedral before we set off. The cathedral is magnificent. 

An easy and pleasant ride out of the city. Although we are now in a more industrialised area, the route is clear and often in the countryside. 

We passed the enormous Ford factory and then later a chemical plant. Then across meadows and along a dyke to Zons, a medieval walled town. Here we stopped for lunch, then a visit to the town toilets,which had the chattiest attendant we have ever come across.

We then took the ferry across the river and headed for Dusseldorf. We had two small diversions today, the river slowly getting back to normal. The last part of the route into Dusseldorf took us along a dyke which gave us great views over the river and the biggest market garden  we have ever seen. 

We then crossed a high bridge,

pedestrian's and cyclists only. From the bridge we could see the large bend in the river and a lot of the buildings in Dusseldorf. Another impressive entry to a city. 

We soon found an hotel in a not so salubrious part of the old town. 

The link to Auntie Helen, the girl on the recumbent trike is :-

www.auntiehelen.co.uk

Our pictures are on 11thJune posting. 

I have been told to mention the sheep. 2 large flocks down by the river. And a kayakerin the middle of the Rhine with large barges bearing down on him. 

Andernach to Koln. Warm and flat.

Mileage:- 51 miles.

Total mileage :- 667 miles

Hotel :- Hotel Krone

At the hotel Fuchs we were asked if we could leave early, not because of John P's behaviour, but the landladies husband had a hospital appointment. He was not keen as instead of helping us leave he insisted on showing us the flood markers for all of the floods. Then as a bonus he showed us all the flags of countries he had visited. Even so we were on the street by 9.15 - a record. 

It was dry and the weather looked promising. A very pleasant ride took us along beside the road and above the river for quite a while. We had a good view of the river valley as it began to flatten out. The route was clear and when close to the river, well clear of the water. Our hope that a couple of shorter days would give the water time to drop proved correct. 

At Bad Breisig, whilst Ann and the Parkins were buying supplies for the day, I saw a recumbent trike approaching with Union flag and German flags flying.

 by an English girl, Auntie Helen, she stopped recognising our tandem and had a chat. Helen had also had problems with flood water, and being quite low it had more consequences for her than us.
http://www.auntiehelen.co.uk/ko2ko-koblenz-to-koln/
Not long after leaving Helen and her cake we had a flooded path. It was at least 100 metres, and got deeper near the end. Ann Managed to hold her feet up to keep them dry while I got my feet soaked. 

We continued on, following a good path into Bonn, right through the city and had lunch on the other side. After lunch we had the first of only 2 diversions for the day. The debris and mud made some parts pretty dirty, but usually the diversions are signed and clear.

Amazingly many parts had already been cleaned, mud hosed off, flowers replaced, grass cut and debris cleared. We could still see castles on hill tops as we rode along. 

We made good time and were soon approaching Koln. We passed the campsite Ann and I knew without us recognising it. It had been flooded out and the paths into town were under water. It was difficult to find rooms, but we managed in the end, our hotel is near the cathedral. A beer and meal quickly followed. A very good day.? I nearly forgot to mention we found a bike path sized covered bridge, which Ann duly recorded.

Boppard to Andermach. Breakfast, castles and Koblenz.

Mileage:- 31 miles.

Total mileage:- 616 miles. 

Hotel:- Hotel Garni Fuchs

This was our breakfast platter this morning. Meats, asparagus, smoked salmon and fruit. Plus breads etc. 

Our hope that the river would have gone down enough to avoid diversions proved right. That we might enjoy the rest of the Rhine Gorge in sunshine was wrong. 

We quickly rode through the rain staying on the route to Koblenz. There were a number of castles on route, usually in spectacular settings. 

The route into Koblenz was clear and straightforward, bringing us quickly to Deutches Eck (the German Corner). This is the point where the Mosel joins the Rhine. 

This was a spectacular setting. There was a massive art work by a Chinese artist. There is also an enormous statue of Kaiser Wilhelm 1. 

The route then headed across the Mosel and our first diversions of the day. Much of the parkland at the rivers edge was still under water. But the cycle route had diversions in place and we were soon back on route. The path now was alongside the river, sometimes almost level with it. Then we started to find sections that were still flooded. Alternatives were easy enough to find. But as we got closer to Andernach we had gone a few kilometres along one section which was muddy and wet, then it became impassable. We retraced our steps and followed the road into Andernach. We went into the old town, saw an hotel sign, and the owner opened the door and had us booked in almost before we were off the bikes. 

Ann and Jenny guarding the bikes at Deutches Eck. 

Bacharach to Boppard. Rain, rain and more rain.

Mileage:- 21 miles

Total mileage:- 585

Hotel:- Pension - Haus Weller

After a very pleasant breakfast we got organised to set off. Then it started to rain. Enough for full waterproofs? Not sure. But it gradually increased to very heavy. Here we are on the most picturesque part of the Rhine in pouring rain.

We passed a few castles, the Loreley Rock, the two castles of Sterrenburg and Lebenstein. It is heavy rain when standing under a big road bridge is very pleasant. We stood long enough to chat to a couple of young Germans having a few days on a cycle circuit of the area, and a Dutchman, who was wild camping, and had travelled by bicycle all over the world. 

At this point we decided rather than plod on and miss the rest of this section, we would stop at Boppard, trust the forecast and hopefully see some of the gorge in the promised sunshine tomorrow. 

The route today was on very good asphalt, although close to the road, rail and river it was good going. The flood waters were receding, but still high on many places. Small village promenades and gardens under water, landing stages inaccessible, small islands, completely submerged.

We saw campsites where the ducks were swimming on the tent pitches. There was a lot of cleaning up going on, many trying to clear the fine mud that the flood water leaves. We are hoping that a few low mileage days will allow the water to drop enough for us to follow the route with fewer diversions. 

Meanwhile John P. has taken lightweight touring a step further. Multiuse, being the key.

Here he is modelling a seat protector, that doubles as a helmet cover. Now how useful and stylish is that!

Mainz to Bacharach. Warm cycling and receding floods.

Mileage:- 37 miles
Total mileage:- 564 miles
Hotel:- Haus Dettmar
After a relaxing time at Janes in Frankfurt, we set out again. We took the train to Mainz to continue with our trip.
We followed signed cycle paths out of Mainz and it was not long before we had to divert because of floodwater. This continued for the rest of the day. Adding some extra miles, backtracking and diverting. Luckily the roads we had to use were not too busy. We could see the floodwater had receded in many places, but was still flooding promenades, paths and campsites. River traffic was able to use the river again, ferries were running as well as the river cruise ships. In fact there were so many ships on the river it looked like a convoy.
We are now in the Rhine Gorge, lots of castles and fachwerk (wood frame medieval tudor style) buildings. There are vineyards on the slopes. It is all very picturesque. We found a hotel in Bacharach, another beautiful little village with walls around part of it. A beer and we are ready for food.

Mainz to Frankfurt. Rest day!

A very enjoyable meal in Mainz, and a noisy night in the hotel, keeping us all awake. We had time to visit the church of St. Stephan's. With the stained glass windows by Chagall, they were stunning. We were the only people in the church, a lovely oasis of calm in the busy city. Then we went into Frankfurt by train. This was a planned break, staying at Jane Parkins, John and Jenny's daughter. Plus Alex their grandson and Jan. 

The Rhine looked swollen as we crossed on the railway bridge. Some parts of the riverside in Frankfurt were flooded, but the water appears to be receding. 

The break has allowed us to clean and check the the bikes, do the washing etc. A day off tomorrow then back on the route on Saturday.

Worms to Mainz. Wine and Rhine

Mileage:- 35 miles

Total mileage:- 527 miles

Hotel :- Terminus Hotel

A very pleasant stay in Worms. A balcony overlooking the cathedral. Could not get any cash today. A dearth of machines and Santander would not give me any either. Eventually got some in a small village.

We were advised to take the alternative route "Rheinterrassen Radweg" to keep away from the flooded areas. This was a lovely ride, through small villages and vineyards. Sometimes rising on a high terrace which gave good views over the river.

We eventually came back to the Rhine only to find more diversions and flooding. We foun Viking River Cruises landing wrecked. Still no river traffic at all. The occasional big barge tied up, but nothing on the water.

We got into Mainz, but we had to cycle on the main road as the path was flooded. The roads are busier as no one can use the ferries. The campsite here was flooded, so another hotel. 

Speyer to Worms.

Mileage:- 35 miles
Total mileage:- 492 miles
Hotel:- Kalisch
We spent some time in Speyer before we set off. Warm and sunny, everyone going about as normal, a flood happening down the road. We still found parts of our route flooded and impassable. There were lots of people out watching, including the fire brigade and the army.
We passed a number of campsites that were completely flooded. Caravans that could be moved had been towed to higher land, often beside the path. Others were flooded out.
The route was well signed, which helps, even though we have had to change route quite a number of times each day over the last few days. John P has done a grand job of navigating us around the floods.